Protopasta Sparkly, Metallic, Fun and Strong
Get Your Sparkle On, Metallic HTPLA
Nothing says FUN better than Proto-Pasta's Bright and Sparkly HTPLA. The colors in this series are amazing, ranging from Empire Strikes Black to Electric Lemonade and everything in-between.
Electric Lemonade - A custom color designed by Steve Abrams (@Artobot on Instagram & Twitter) in collaboration with Proto-pasta at their 2nd Filament Workshop. Scroll to the bottom workshop page to enjoy the video and reviews. Below, check out Steve's workshop spools and a beautiful Electric Lemonade print. For more of Steve's work, you can also visit his etsy store.
Joel's Highfive Blue - Yes named after that Joel - The 3d Printing Nerd in his favorite color. Rumor has it that Joel lives in Seattle, close to me and the Fromel 3D shop. Joel if your reading this send me note, I would love to meet you!
Tangerine Orange Metallic Gold - AKA TOM, for Thomas Sanladerer (toms3d.org) who helped in the design and manufacture of his very own Protopasta color. Inspired by wild, dynamic colors like those made popular by Lotus Cars, this color dynamically shifts in the light from gold to orange. We hope sharing the process of making and the resulting one-of-a-kind product inspires you to print beautiful, cherished things. Does not require hardened nozzle.
Winter Blue Glitter Flake. Born out of Project Winterfill, the idea was to capture the spirit of the season in filament form. Created from translucent HTPLA, Protopasta mixed in just the right amount of blue and sparkle for a cool, wintry blue. A very dynamic and deep color, the blue concentration creates a light blue color that can extend both towards a silvery green and a deep dark purple depending on form and light. The additional glitter bits sometimes disappear and in other light bring a frosty finish which make the blue look almost snow-covered. Please enjoy creating festive holiday prints regardless of the season and spread good cheer with this cool and refreshing color.
Cloverleaf Metallic Green HTPLA - Loaded with a "pot o' gold", shifting the color towards a warmer, more plant-like green. Not that you would guess the material's natural, bio-based origin from it's aesthetic. Cloverleaf Green Metallic HTPLA is not short on gloss and has a paint-like finish reminiscent of a vintage British sports car. In any case, be confident that no luck is required for a top-quality finish in anything you print using this material!
Cupid's Crush HTPLA - Remember your first crush? Mine was my first grade teacher Ms Gower. Remember how they could do no wrong and everything about them sparkled? Look out because you're about to be struck by our most sparkly metallic filament yet! Perfect for gifts and sharing, spread the love with Cupid's Crush Metallic Pink. This pink metallic PLA filament contains no actual metal and has little risk of clogging or wearing your nozzle, and it won't make a glittery mess, but beware the printing is sure to be addictive! This is like vintage My Little Pony pink, just amazing, and I'm not much a fan of pink.
Unless noted in the color description sparkly HTPLA is more abrasive than standard PLA and will wear out a standard brass nozzle quickly. I highly recommend getting a hardened nozzle such as a Micro-Swiss A2.
- Available in 1.75mm & 2.85mm diameters. We don't typically stock 2.85mm but are happy to special order for you. Protopasta is just down the road from us In Vancouver, WA.
- 500g is on a 8" diameter cardboard spool l vacuum packed.
- 50g sample is loose coil in vacuum pack.
- Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Prusa, Creality, Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more! Pretty much any printer with at least a .4 nozzle capable of printing .2mm layer height should have no problem with this stuff when using a hardened nozzle
Processing is comparable to standard PLA. No heated bed required. Process may be less consistent on smaller nozzles and/or bowden type machines,
The label say print temp 195-225, I find this prints better at the hotter end of the spectrum and I typically use a brim when printing models with a small footprint.
Specs for all HTPLA
Semi crystalline, heat treatable PLA for high temp use
Density: 1.24 g/cc
Length: 346 m/kg (1.75) 130 m/kg (2.85)
Typical Printing Temp: 205-225 C
Glass Transition (Tg)*: 60 C
Peak Crystallization (Tc)**: 95-115 C
Onset to Melt (Tm)***: 155 C
Typical change when heat treated: -2% x/y +1% z
Link to Safety Data Page
*max use with no heat treat & max platform temp
**heat treating @ temp 10+ min depending on size/mass
***max use when heat treated (annealed or crystallized)
HTPLA prints well at 205-225 C, however it's important to match temp to your hardware & volume flow rate. With a typical hotend, you should be able to print at 205 C without jamming at a low flow rate. In machines with hardware that tends towards jamming, consider this video with Joel Telling.
Lower volume flows require lower temps, while higher volume flows require higher temps. In the previously-mentioned video, one way to overcome jamming is to set your temp to a higher-than-typical 240 C. This should then be matched with a high flow rate for a quality printing result.
For direct drives with a short distance between drive gears & nozzle, volume flows can approach 7-8 cubic mm/s or more if printing hot to overcome jamming. For bowden tubes where the distance between drive gear & nozzle are great or less powerful hotends, as little as 2 and as much as 4 cubic mm/s may be the limit. Beware of unintended speed changes from faster infills & slowing down for outlines or short layers.
A constant speed throughout the part is ideal from an extrusion perspective. Knowing your extrusion width, layer thickness & speed you can calculate your volume flow rate with the calculator like found in Protopasta's Ultimaker blog. Alternatively, if you know your volume flow rate limit, extrusion width & layer thickness, you can calculate your speed limit.
PLA & HTPLA are amorphous in structure as printed (no heat treating) & though both are adequate performers in an office environment, they have poor temperature stability, loosing significant stiffness at temps nearing 60 C. Different than standard PLA, HTPLA is designed to survive heat treating for higher temp stability in a no/minimal load condition to near onset of melting (155 C). That's an astonishing improvement in thermal stability compared to standard PLA after a quick bake in the oven after printing.
In as little as 5-10 minutes for small, thin parts, HTPLA quickly crystallizes in an oven at 95-115 C (200-240 F) to become more stiff & hold form above glass transition (60 C). Depending on part geometry, setup & technique, parts can deform and shrink. Best results are with flat and/or supported parts with 100% infill. In this instance we experienced x/y shrinkage of about 2% & growth of about 1% in z.
Be sure to avoid hot spots (non-radiating surfaces & no glowing coils) in the oven used for baking & experiment before baking a prized part. Un-printed filament works great for experimentation & translucent makes the transformation most visible! Heat treating is an art, but the resulting improved thermal performance, if needed, is well-worth exploring. You'll be shocked by the improved thermal stability of your HTPLA parts!!!
Material Safety Data
Blog about heat treating
Heat treating application blog
Avoiding Jams on your Prusa blog
Avoiding Jams on your Prusa video
Tuning for your Prusa blog
Tuning for your Ultimaker blog
Tuning for your Lulzbot blog